We got up early on July 12 even though our plans were to hit a few close historical places and only clock in about 100 miles. First on our list and only about 20 miles away from our camp at Wompatuck State Park was Adams National Historical Park. Adams NHP is comprised of three separate sites all related to our second President, John Adams. We started our visit at a peculiar visitor center that was located between the Old House (the Adams farm) and the birthplace of both John Adams and John Quincy Adams. It was unusual in that it was located in an office building! Set up to administer both sites, and being centrally located for the bus tour, it kind of made sense from those perspectives. The visitor center has an okay film in that it focuses more on the contributions of all the Adams descendants and not particularly focused on John Adams. I guess it was okay but we were a little disappointed that it did not tell more in depth history of John’s contributions to the Revolution, the early government and service later in life. The tour is a bit pricey at $10.00 per person and long- 2 hours. For any history buff or person interested in early American history, a visit to Quincy, MA where Adams NHP is should be on your list.
By early morning, it was already getting pretty warm so we jumped on I-495 then I-95 south for the short 50 miles or so to Roger Williams National Memorial. Don’t recognize Roger Williams from history, we didn’t either but as usual, the National Parks System didn’t fail to inform! Just about right downtown Providence, RI is his house. Roger Williams was an EARLY advocate of religious freedom and not just to be free to practice whichever you wanted, but to not practice at all if you did not choose to. This all as early as the early to mid-1600’s when in places, people were still being burned at the stake! Not only did Rhode Island incorporate these ideals into their constitution but so did Massachusetts with many of the same words used over 100 years later in our national constitution. Pretty cool! Not only was Roger Williams the founder of these ideas, he founded Rhode Island and was noted for being friendly to our native population, not something the British were noted for. As a matter of fact, he was so admired by the Native Americans that they gave him the land that he founded the city of Providence on.
We had passed a sign coming through Providence that read, “Slater Mill Historical Site” and after inquiring at Roger Williams NM about it, discovered the area in Pawtucket where it is, is a National Historical Landmark. So naturally, we back-tracked the five miles to check it out! This is the area of the Blackstone River Valley that was the FIRST textile mill, and start of the American industrial revolution. Slater Mill National Historical Landmark and the Wilkinson Mill National Historic Mechanical Engineering Landmark are absolutely a must visit. Starting with the mill, we took the tour that walked us through the history of textile manufacturing and the dawn of the industrial age here in the United Sates starting in 1793. Fascinating stuff! David Wilkinson (the father of the American Machine Tool Industry) was equally as fascinating. Both mills relied on water power (wheels) to drive gears that transferred that power to belts that drove the machines. Seeing a machine shop (built to make all the parts necessary to build and maintain the textile mill), the Wilkinson Mill with all the OLD drill presses, lathes and other assorted machine tools all driven by belts was way cool! Both buildings were beautifully restored with the interiors as original as in 1810 at Wilkinson and 1793 in the Slater Mill. Very interesting site and a must see. We even got to see the water wheel engaged and all the belts running, turning the machines!
We got so engrossed in the mills, we lost track of time and got a later than wanted start to our camp at Burlingame State Park in Rhode Island, near the ocean. But before I left, I had to ask how Rhode Island got its name! Story is, Verrazano after exploring the Hudson made his way along the coast and seeing the bay and surrounds about Providence and coastal Rhode Island named it that because it reminded him of another island he had been to that (lost to history) sounded like Rhode. That’s the story and I’m sticking to it! We got to Burlingame State Park fairly early in that all the traffic was leaving the shore (it being Sunday). I made reservations but we needed to be moved because our site was horrible to set up a tent! They were very obliging and we settled in for a good evening which gave me time to examine the BMW for proper oil level and tire pressure once they had cooled sufficiently.
Monday, July 13 we were off to the Bronx! Since it was only about 150 miles, we decided to take US1 for a ways to experience more coastal Rhode Island. By the time we got through Mystic, CT, it was time to hit the expressway! Hooking up with I-95 before we knew it, we were on the Hutchinson River Parkway and only a few miles from our destination in Bronx, NY. We got to Cynthia’s cousins by about 11:30 even though traffic was heavy on I-95 and the road was terrible on the Cross-Bronx Expressway. We had to take it slower than (it seemed) than anyone else driving on the highway. What a time we had on our visit! It was wonderful to get to see Cynthia’s relatives again and have a chance to spend quality time with them discussing the events of our trip. We even got a commitment from her cousin and his family to visit us in Las Vegas in November! We are really looking forward to that. But, as they say, all good things must come to an end, and we SO didn’t want to leave on Monday, July 16.
On Monday, we departed but this time I was determined NOT to pay the Jersey Turnpike any money! We crossed the George Washington Bridge after a trying couple of miles on the Cross-Bronx and were soon on I-80 west to avoid the turnpike (the GW Bridge is ‘free’ going south). Soon we were on I-287 and right into a traffic back-up because of an accident. I don’t mind traffic back-ups too much unless they become that stop and go stuff. It is pretty irritating to us and when it is hot, even more so! The rest of the trip down through Princeton and past Philadelphia was uneventful but the 220 or so miles took us 5 ½ hours. We made our camp at Patapsco State Park once again in Catonsville and took care of some business while there for two days.
By Saturday July 18, we were ready to get back to exploring! We bugged out early and was at our first stop in western Maryland at Fort Frederick State Park, which is also a National Historical Landmark. Fort Frederick was built in 1756 to assist the British in protecting their interests from the French in what was then the western-most extent of British settlement in the Maryland colony. Unusual for its time, the fort was made with stone walls. Because of its strong construction and large size, the fort was never attacked. The visitor center had a pretty good film about the history and the fort is easily reached via a park road. The park itself is only 1 mile off I-70. Our next stop was only a few miles further on at the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal National Historical Park. This park has numerous (7) visitor centers along its 184.5 (75 lock) mile route, paralleling the Potomac River from Georgetown in DC to Cumberland, MD. There are also loads of campgrounds along the way and the trail is the towpath for the canal. We opted to stop at the Hancock Visitor Center in Hancock, MD because this site is only about a mile from I- 70 too. The canal was built between 1828 and 1850 but was closed by 1924, killed almost immediately by the B&O Railroad whose track bed is now the Western Maryland Rail Trail and lies within 100 or so yards of the canal at this spot. But, as early as the 1750’s George Washington envisioned a transportation canal along the very route it took and even served as the company’s President that was organized to build it. President John Adams broke ground for the canal on July Fourth, 1828. Lots of history in western Maryland to explore! We decided to take an early break since we got pounded on in a rain storm just west of Frederick, MD. We dropped down on US220 south at Cumberland, MD and headed towards Elkins, WV but bailed out at Blackwater Falls State Park just a little ways from Elkins.
Our stay at Blackwater Falls was great! We met a bunch of other bikers on all different brands who are Motocampers. According to them, they post a get-together online, and anyone who wants to come, meets at the campground they pick. I plan to look at the website, motocampers.com. We had a great visit with those folks. Got together at one of their campsites and had a camp fire and swapped stories of places we’ve been, and recommendations of where to go. We got lots of good information too! There was a single lady, a few couples and two single guys and one of them was 83 and road his 250 scooter from Hagerstown, MD (about 150 miles). He said his wife, aged 81, only quit camping this year! In addition, there were all different brands but the comradery was all there.
We woke to clouds on Sunday, July 19 and only planned to get to New River Gorge National River, about 200 miles down US 219. What a great drive! Just enough curves and straights to keep you interested. All two lane, it passes through mountains, small towns and the scenery is fantastic! Glad we chose that route. Before we knew it, we were at New River Gorge. This is (the southeast of West Virginia) a beautiful area and worth a closer look at a later date because the park is mainly geared towards canoers and the like for the rapids. We heard that because of all the rain there this spring, the white water is pretty much covered up with well, water! Not much else is in the park. For us, the temps climbed to an uncomfortable 90+ and the humidity to make it all that much better! We camped within Bluestone National Scenic River in the state park by the same name. We definitely will be back here and possibly many other parts of Wild & Wonderful West Virginia!
Stay tuned as we head west through southern Ohio, Indiana and Illinois on our way back to Russellville for a second visit. Much more to come! Greg & Cynthia.